kunming log

Shanghai: What the f*** am I doing here?

For many, place like Shanghai and Beijing are as far as their exploration of China goes. Many come with planned tour groups, hitting the "highlights" of China in a neat 10 or 14 day tour. Upon returning to wherever they call home, most can barely contain their excitement when they can brag to their friends about their adventures. Most likely they will skip the negatives and highlight the perils of this exotic country with its unique culture.

Some will feel it necessary to speak loudly (and give authoritative commentary) to (at first) their friends and families and later (when the former merely walks away) to complete strangers about the wonderful development and progressive policies of China.

Meanwhile, others will begin to track news about China, shaking their heads. They will be convinced that they knew all this would happen when it finally does. Although in reality it had been happening for decades before direct, overnight flights to Shanghai even existed.

Still, for most they will probably file their 5-star escorted adventure as another successful summer trip: quite enjoyable, not too pricey.

Then there is me. Pitiful. Unrelenting. Unimpressed. Cynical.

While I sincerely doubt it was my first thought upon landing in Shanghai, I am pretty certain that my thoughts quickly turned to exactly why I chose to spend my non-existent income on a visit to here. Sure, I visited a friend, whom I rarely see. I also got away from Kunming for a long weekend. Not to mention I've now seen another side of China (aside from Hong Kong).

My impressions of Shanghai, in no particular order:

There isn't much for cultural exploration here. Ok, you can find a few gardens that were "preserved", but they are no where near the city center (the city has been gradually expanding over the last 20 or so years---out with the old, in with the very expensive).

It's hot as hell here. For example, it was about 90 degrees F at 10pm last night. (my friend is convinced that the use of ACs has forever altered the summer environment).

It is way too expensive (I went from paying 23 yuan for dinner for 4 to paying 80 yuan for a simple, light lunch--prices only reflect what the market will bear).

The environment is completely f****ed up (I have pictures to prove it!). Counting the stars is completely out of the picture in Shanghai! We are forever encased in perm-o-smog. After thinking about it for a few days, I'm now convinced that its worse than Mexico City.

Malls. malls. malls. Oh and luxury condos. That is the biggest physical feature here. Besides that lots of expats. And not the mildly harmless types you find in Kunming. Nope, these people are dangerous! (Sorry, very hard to describe in a few sentences, but most will know what I am talking about).

And now for the reasons why I am so very glad I came here:

--The malls, the lack of historical context outside of a few tourist traps, the messed up environment, and the outrageous prices.

These things are as important to witness as the quaint, underdeveloped side of China. The Chinese development that I have experienced for last two months has been largely represented by the repressed and poor south. My experiences alone are one thing, but it has been so very helpful to have a local friend to show me around--all while she openly laments about the past.

--The chance to live in a "typical" Shanghai 50 year leased, government-owned apartment.

It's something that you will really never experience in your lifetime unless you come here. My friend's family was literally moved from the downtown (when there was still not so much of a downtown) to what was then a remote suburb. They were given an apartment that was assigned based on the size of their family. They own nothing and the government can (as they have in the past) rapidly changed their policy. You can't fully appreciate the implications of ever-changing Chinese property rights until you experience it first hand (of course 4 nights is just a start).

--The Bund Tourist Tunnel.

It was truly one of the most unique experiences of my life. I made a video of it. Will post it ASAP. In the meantime, I urge you to google it.

Overall, I am really glad I came here. Yeah it was boring at times. Yes the condition of the environment is really depressing. But its another side of Chinese development, a side that simply can't be missed by even the most casual of observer.

I'll be landing in Kunming this time tomorrow. I never thought I'd hear myself say that I can't wait to be back in my little provincial city again; where I see the same people everyday and practically eat at the same restaurants every night--but I am.

PS: I will update this post with links to pictures and video as soon as I upload them!

posted by Aki @ 9:16 PM